Resurgence of Jet: The Victorian Era's Beloved Gemstone Reclaims the Spotlight

Oct 15, 2024 By Quentin

Once overshadowed by the brilliance of diamonds, sapphires, and rubies, the unassuming Jet gemstone is experiencing a renaissance in the world of jewelry. Hailing from the Neolithic era, Jet, a deep-black gem derived from fossilized wood, is enjoying a revival after its peak popularity during the Victorian era, where it signified social ranking, wealth, and even emotional states.

The Victorian period was marked by a rich language of fashion, where every item, from corsets to top hats, conveyed a message about the wearer's status. Jewelry, including Jet, was no exception. Queen Victoria herself popularized Jet after the death of her husband, Prince Albert, making it synonymous with mourning attire.

Sarah Steele, a leading British gemologist and Jet researcher, notes that Jet's widespread appeal during the Victorian era was followed by a decline due to an influx of lower-quality stones and the advent of plastics like Bakelite. However, a new generation of designers is embracing Jet, particularly the highly prized Whitby Jet from England, known for its durability and deep black hue.

Natasha Wightman, a Sussex-based jewelry designer, debuted her "Ravens" collection, featuring intricately carved Whitby Jet pieces, at Dover Street Market. Similarly, Jacqueline Cullen's "Dark Matter" collection marries hand-carved Whitby Jet with black diamonds, creating contemporary jewels inspired by nature's dramatic forces.

The unique craftsmanship and rarity of Jet set it apart in a market saturated with mass-produced luxury items. With only a limited supply available, primarily from coastal finds, Jet's allure lies in its authentic connection to British heritage and the artisanal skill required to transform it into wearable art.

As the demand for handcrafted and rare luxury goods grows, Jet is well-positioned to attract connoisseurs and collectors who value its historical significance and aesthetic uniqueness. Its natural scarcity ensures that each piece is a true original, much like the fashion-forward designs of visionaries such as John Galliano or Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli, who may find inspiration in Jet's rich history and understated elegance.

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