Japanese whiskies, nihonshu (sake), and beers have garnered global acclaim. However, a Tokyo-based bar is on a mission to revive interest in doburoku, an ancient and controversial beverage steeped in Japanese history. Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery, nestled in the Nihombashi district of eastern Tokyo, is part of this revival. During the Edo era (1603-1868), this area bustled with activity as boats laden with sake shipments docked here. With this historical significance in mind, Heiwa Shuzou, a brewery established in 1928 in Wakayama prefecture known for its sake production, chose to open this unique doburoku-focused bar in one of Tokyo's most affluent neighborhoods. Before delving into the bar to sample this drink, it's essential to understand the rich and contentious history of doburoku.

The origins of doburoku are as enigmatic as the drink itself. Often regarded as the precursor to modern sake, the term, which translates to "cloudy" or "unrefined" liquor, is fitting. To differentiate this opaque Japanese spirit from the well-known transparent sake, there are two distinct, albeit slightly misleading, categories: seishu, or clear sake, and doburoku. The key difference between sake and doburoku lies in their production processes. Traditional sake production involves a yeast starter known as shubo, combined with three primary ingredients—steamed rice, kouji (rice fungus), and water—over several days. In contrast, doburoku is made by adding all these ingredients at once to the yeast starter, resulting in a mixture rich in sugars. These sugars then begin to break down the yeast, halting fermentation prematurely. The outcome is a sweeter liquid with a significantly lower alcohol content, known as doburoku.

Doburoku has been a part of Japanese culture for as long as rice has been cultivated, serving as the preferred drink of farmers and Shinto priests. Its straightforward recipe—essentially, combining all ingredients in a single vessel—made doburoku a common sight in rural areas. The practice of home brewing thrived for centuries. According to Utsunomiya Hitoshi, director of the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (JSS), in 1855, there were 459 doburoku producers in Edo (present-day Tokyo). However, the end of the Edo period (1603-1868) marked a significant shift, as all feudal lords were compelled to relinquish their regional domains to the centralized Meiji government, based in the new capital, Tokyo. This change in governance led to the establishment of structured institutions, including a powerful and organized tax collection system. Recognizing the potential revenue from licensed breweries and distilleries, the new government began to impose restrictions on home brewing. Utsunomiya notes that in 1880, the quantity of home-brewed liquor started to be regulated, and a licensing system was introduced in 1882. In 1896, a liquor tax was levied on all home brewing, culminating in the complete prohibition of home-brewed liquors in 1899. Essentially, all doburoku produced thereafter was referred to as mitsuzoushu, or "secretly produced alcohol," akin to moonshine. Yet, even during the prohibition, doburoku persisted in Japan, notably in Shinto shrines for ritual purposes.

Post-World War II, due to a scarcity of sake, makgeolli, a Korean beverage and an unfiltered relative of doburoku made from rice, wheat, malt, and water, became a popular alternative. Despite the ongoing illegality of home brewing, in 2003, the Japanese government permitted the commercial sale of doburoku in special deregulation zones, primarily in areas where economic growth had slowed. As of 2021, there are 193 establishments across Japan authorized to sell doburoku. Tokyo's Sake Hotaru, opened in 2015, was the first legal venue to offer doburoku in the capital. However, it was not until late 2016 that the bar began selling it to the public. Since then, more options have emerged. Most notably, in June 2022, Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery opened a bar near Nihombashi. Norimasa Yamamoto, President of Heiwa Shuzo, estimates that about half of the bar's patrons are international visitors. "We often receive inquiries about the distinctions between sake and doburoku, the production timeline, and the manufacturing process," he shares, referring to the curiosity of the bar's clientele. In addition to doburoku, the brewery's own sake and beer are also available. However, it's important to note that the brewery does not accept cash transactions. The flavor of doburoku is described as intense, with some comparing it to cheddar cheese and noni, a distinctively flavored Polynesian fruit. For those unable to visit Japan, doburoku can be sampled closer to home. In Brooklyn, Kato Sake Works offers a small quantity of the beverage. Nevertheless, owner Shinobu Kato observes that "the context doesn't exist here," as Americans are less likely to be familiar with doburoku. "Apart from a few sake shops that are very knowledgeable and interested in our doburoku," Kato says, "most sales occur at the taproom for both bottled takeaways and by-the-glass consumption."